No idea why this website keeps throwing them up for me, technology I guess :S
It's been 2 weeks since my last (attempt at a) post and many things have happened, this is going to be epic, if you plan on reading to the end I suggest making a cuppa to accompany.
firstly there's the above (21st July):
...Win!
With the help of Gav's expertise, Bob's maths and all of our labouring I now have this little beauty on my house (my parents are pretty amazing for allowing it :))
Some time around the 13th
Shortly before this we took a little trip to the lakes(ish), to trowbarrow and woodwell, I got close on The Pit Problem, (7b+) and Not Bad Dave (7c, absolutely classy as well) but had climbed in wales the 2 days previously and was pretty tired, I felt that I'd put in enough effort to get the moves wired, and would be able to do them if we returned with a bit of luck. Gav and Bob also had a good go on both of them, all of us getting close, and danny got the sequence nailed on the unmercifully shouldery 'Wheelbarrow' (v10) (Danny also saw of not bad dave pretty fast, and with a glove protecting the hold on the lip from the now torrential rain we were sheltering under the problem from)
21st July: Does that mean he has to get naked?...'Yeah right now; we'll turn the video camera off first'
Return to Lancashire, this time with the whole krew, 2 cars, and enough mats to save me bruising my arse taking falls on the pit problem like last time - Myself, Bob, Danny, Gav, and Little Tom.
Danny smegged all over wheelbarrow on his 2nd attempt despite the temperature, must've been about 27, Tommy quickly worked out his own beta and joined suit, then to my great happyness (probably due to the wonder of rest days) I got the pit problem. Bob sorted his foot beta after a bunch of goes, but was too tired to make it (prob something to do with the horrific heat), and Gav got perilously close, screwing the pooch on the top-out. Check out Danny's Blog for more.
I then stripped down to my boxers and managed to get the pit low start, my first 7c! Really glad I got it on a problem with a top out, as I got to sit up there all happy for 5 mins, after Wig had claimed me and taken a picture of my all triumphant at the top (sans clothing).
We headed over to woodwell where I got Not Bad Dave, screwing the very last move by catching the muddy side of the last jug once before managing to get it next go (despite a friendly wasp which landed on my face as soon as I had pulled up on the lip, there was no way I was letting getting stung on the nose take a problem this good from me!).
First 2 v9s, pretty chuffed!
The video of the pit problem SS was 2.4mb over the 100mb limit for the site.. fail, so here's a facebook link
28th-30th July: Last but not least!
Time to introduce another couple of climbing companions to the blog, the honourable Mr Kay aka James/Special/JK and Alex Dexter aka Sir Lanksalot, both friends from Brum uni who I met via the climbing club. These 2 picked me up en route to the Wales around mid day Wed for a budget 3 day trip to the cave of justice and surrounding wonderness. Apologies if I miss anything out, we climbed at least 20hours each over 3 days and there's a lot of stuff to be remembered!
Day 1
Arrived @ the aforementioned cave of wonderment, sent the sit to clever cleaver (soft 7c) as my warm up, win! (I've spent a lot of time on all of the parts of it to be fair). James despatched the looooong right wall reverse into parisellas roof, really showing his sport climber's stamina.
Dexter also jumped on this problem, (having never tried it from the normal start, ballsy) but had difficulties working out beta whilst pumped out of his mind.
I also managed the low start (best low start everrrr!) to beaver cleaver(7b+), and Mr Kay sent it from the stand.
Day 2
Woke up nice and early in the cave, bumbled around with our morning ablutions, and walked down to pill box wall, which was FREEZING, by the time I arrived (I had been reading on the toilet) JK had already done Pill Box Original (v6/7) and was looking at the greek, which surprisingly I managed to flash, and he did shortly after: looking at home as ever on crimps. Due to it being pretty bloody baltic we headed back to the cave. I played on Lou Ferrino, and got to the rail for the first time, then spent the next 3 hours dozing on mats in the sun whilst James and Dexter grabbed a bunch of routes just upstairs of the cave (a video would follow, but it's nearly half a gig, sorry James!) That evening James did the low start to right wall, and I slaughtered myself trying lou ferrino again, to no avail, just too tired/not quite clear on beta.
James on Pill Box Original v6/7
James on Pill Box Original v6/7
Just before we bedded down the 2 strangers turned up in the dark, what could've been a bit dodgy ended up sweet as a bishop, as they turned out to be the powerhouses of campusing/horrific crimps which are the Copleys, we had a chat, then went to sleep in readiness for a day of abuse on Friday (I slept 'til 9:30, winner!)
Day 3: 10 Hours of steep powerful overhangs please.
We had promised to well and truly burn ourselves out on the final day, I was keen for Louey, but was just too tired from the previous days didn't stop me getting to the first pocket a fair few times (I wish I had skinny fingers), got my beta sorted out now though, dexter and JK didn't stop, despite the rain, perhaps most ridiculously James tried Rockatrocity over 8hours in and nearly did it (I've been telling him it'd suit him for ages, glad he jumped on) getting to the rail just under the drilled pocket. Despite the problem being far from over at this point I don't doubt that he'll crush it at some point in the near future, very impressive first 7c it'd be and all.
Apologies for the length (lol) as sad as it may be I do actually miss writing essays having spent 3 years solid bashing them out at Uni :S
Team Brum will be returning to Wales, weather permitting late next week hopefully, this time with the legendary Northern Ben, who I lived with last year at Uni, who's been on a pretty solid peak traverse crushing mission for the past month, can't see him not being spoilt for choice at the cave :)
