V10 Again!

Just a quickie, sent Thug Mental today, having managed to drop it at the 2nd to last jug last session (I know), didn't manage to get a vid, but I'll rag one up of one of my frustration scream sponsored unsuccessful attempts up once it's on Vimeo, in all modesty I reckon I'm rocking the best beta in the world on this problem ^^, it felt fine, no where near the struggle that I had on Lou Ferrino, and it's length wasn't as much of an issue as I thought it'd be at all. The initial crux was worked out with Bob's help, then modded a bit to get in a sexy toehook which makes the moves much less percentagey, and also faster, and I worked out another toehook method for the mental extension section on the rank sloper, which makes a huge difference.


I headed down with the inhumane crush-engager that is Little Tom, who managed Thug Mental, it's 2 parts (all in a couple of goes, 4 max) and flashed pantys down for good measure.

Now the sit calls, Thug mental goes at 7c+ (previously 8a), crag link expert Holger Moeller has done a low start, into thug mental, extending into firestarter's finish, grading it only 8a, this looks mental (appropriately), not to mention it's at least 15metres of climbing, including 3 v7ish cruxy moves. If thug mental really is 7c+ then I don't think the sitter could be anything but 8a, so I guess Holger's epic link is just hard for the grade or something.

I've climbed twice in the padt 4 days, which has doubled my total of climbing (indoor and out) for the last month since I started doing nights, I've got shit all finger strength left, but shifting 15kg crates around for 8 hours a night is at least keeping my body tension, core, shoulders etc in check, looking forwards to finishing, which I guess will be around the end of Jan, when I'll have enough money to head to the rocklands with senior Wigg next year (psyyychhhheeed)


Failed Attempt

In other news my little finger on my left hand is still crap, stopping me from close crimping and pinching(my got I miss pinches :(), I'm probably going to go back to my GP and see if I can get a referral to someone who knows what they're doing.

For now Enjoy some pretty pictures of pantymwyn, the fail vid link will prob be edited in tomorrow.

Very Late Font Roundup - as promised

So, belatedly here we go, it's 6 in the morning on christmas day, and I've been woken up needing the toilet desperately in the way only spending a good evening with mates can lead to, my sleeping is fairly wrecked courtesy of the W.M Morrisons workhouse nightshifts which're ruling my life, so I may as well do something productive I guess.

Disclamer
This shit's going to be epic, for those with short attention spans there'll be lots of pictures, don't worry!

But first; a short, from roaches studios!

24th Oct:

Bob Gaskins on some problem about cow poo:


Bloody amazing sunset:



Ticklist: Some stuff on cowcutter buttress and the worlds hardest sidstart further up the crag.



The Main Feature
To background the trip: Little finger injury(serious) = no crimping for me, 6 weeks off, heavy, pants basically, with only my crutch of the ability to heelhook and knowledge of how to flag when campussing left in the bag Myself and Bob set off to sunny (mhhmmm...) France.

In chronological order:
Packed car, pretty sunsets!

Arrived, made the first of many carpark dinners to come, went to sleep under the boulder that'd become our bivvy for the next 3 weeks.

Day 1, 27th Oct

Amazing weather, slightly too hot if anything; Bob and I sent Retour aux Sources, absolutely amazing 7a, set a benchmark for the rest of the trip, font's made of them!
Linky: Vimeo




I sent Rude Boy, another brilliant 7a, got a video of this one as well.
Vimeo
28th Oct

Returned to the rude boy bloc for Bob to have another go, I sent Les Pieds dans la lune, powerful little number with a cruxy undercut move, 7a+, was just happy that my finger wasn't holding e back too much.

I also tried 'Sans Dessus Dessous, which was to become the subject of a bit of an epic, more about that later :)

29th Rest day, 30th Rain, 31st The Magic Cul De Chien (/'Dog's Arse' according to Bob's local lingo)

Arabesque bloc, I did Le Retour de la chenile (7a+) 2nd go, which is nothing but a horrific mantle, absolutely amazing, complete grovel, win!

Both of us spent a considerable time fannying around on Arabesque, which I'd seen the honourable Mr Mills laying on last trip to font a couple of years back, it was just as good as I remembered, and just as powerful! We both got some significant beta knowledge from sheer amount of goes, it felt beyond me though, which I think was pretty much solely down to lack of fitness post 6weeks of and being heavy/generally not in the best climbing shape.

Then headed to the Roof of the cul de Chien for Bob to have a go, as it's mega classic, I did it once more, this problem was my first 7a (done after my first 7b on the same day, last day of last font trip) so it's always going to be pretty special, personal sentiments aside I genuinely do think it's the best 7a I've ever done or tried in my life. Bob didn't have any luck on it due to skin issues, courtesy of the time spent on Arabesque on a fairly greasy day.

1st - Rest day
Car park Activities, the first of many days of entertaining ourselves!

2nd - Cul de Chien again
More time spent on arabesque, both Bob and I got to the big slappy crux a number of times, getting our beta more wired as we got more tired, good session, just a hard move, no cigar again.

As as we both got we agreed not to come back for a while, due to the matching destroyed knees as a result of the powerful kneebar move, it turned out it took all of 3 weeks to heal enough to try it again!

3rd - The beginning of the Rain
Thank god for our quality Bivvy Rock! Pissed it down, unmercifully, for days!

5th - Sunny window, went to Mont Pivot, amazing problems, far too warm! Unfinished business here aplenty for next time!

6th-10th More Rain!

IL PLEUT! Whilst it rained we kept ourselves occupied checking out Chateaveau, Gorge aux Chats, Franchard, L'Elephant, Rocher de Corne Biche and Petite Bois, along with a healthy dose of sitting in the car reading. Despite the rain font managed to remain pretty beautiful, esecially during the 3 days of most ridiculous intense Autumnal vibrancy imaginable, try this on for size:




11th - Gorge aux Chats
Sent Sa Pelle Au Logis (7a+), third go, should've been first, brilliant little problem, started raining heavily just as I hit the last hold! The discovery that this area dried fast was definately one of the winners of the holiday, especially as it was a short drive away from our home in 'Le Croix au St Gerome' carpark.

BOAR!
Heard and saw a boar whilst walking to the bivvy, both pissed ourself, but it was pretty cool, big bastard!

12th - Gorge aux Chats
Bob Worked on Sa Pelle Aaux Logis, I did La Parre Dessus, and Stormroc, both 7a+, both 3rd go, Stormrock was just like being on the grit :), both sent in the spitting rain before all hell broke loose and the heavens opened, Il plus pleut!

13th Cuvier Rampart Est
By this stage I especially was getting so tired of the rain that I was going to climb every day it was possible, rested or not, the rain was pretty frustrating, I was determined not to be beaten by it though.

Before it rained again I managed to do 'Big Mama Assis' - a highball 7a, all the hard work low down, much easier as you go, properly pleasant stuff, I found the bottom very hard, which I think was due to having shortarse legs, not complaining though, as the shortarse beta involved a pretty nice slappy dyno, great stuff, thoroughly recommended, amazing highball.

14th Rain, 15th - Rocher Greau, The Return of the Bob
Man this place is good, park in the centre of town, next to the Hotel de Ville, turn around, see park, climb! Absolutely quality venue, really looking forwards to going back.

Bob rediscovered his form and we both sent a couple of brilliant overhanging problems, both of which I snapped a video of him doing. Oliver Twist (7a) was first on the bill, another climb where I found the crux was at the bottom, aided by lack of reach, solved it with campussing, bob opted for some pretty powerful slappy toe-clamp beta. After that was Le Jea t'es Fou, which I managed to somehow get very scared on, despite good spotting, plenty of pads, and a flat landing, I've found that this occasionally happens post ankle incident, it's happening less and less but certain moves irrationally have the ability to turn me into a complete wimp! Bob didn't have any trouble on this one either.

Oliver Twist:
Vimeo
Vimeo
Le Jea t'es Fou
Vimeo

'Commitment stomach':


16th - Rest, 17th Cuvier Chatillon
This place has so many short overhanging burlfests! Definitely one of the areas I'm looking forwards to returning to the most in font. It also contained one of the few problems I'd put on my 'to try' list, having seen a video of the ever prolific Neil Hart doing, and thinking it looked amazing - 'Bleau's Art'.

It's a shame I didn't have the video fresh in my mind, because I spent a good hour and a bit trying it a ridiculously hard deadpoint way, removing all of my skin, and getting no closer to what I thought was the crux.

Meanwhile bob was trying a fairly fierce looking crimpy wall, again short but sweet, that wasn't in the guide, we assumed it was 6c+ or thereabouts, as it was pretty tricky and reachy, despite being low on height, he managed to send it using some late discovered beta, which was unsurprising as the thing was covered in holds, they were just all rubbish and there was nothing for feet :)


However, as is so often the case I discovered some betta beta whilst knackered, and despite the none existent skin and lack of power left managed to send it, good thing it's short and sweet! Sweet it is as well, definately one of the best v8s I've ever done, and at that point it was the best thing I'd tried to date, also the hardest thing sent thus far in the trip.

Bleau's Art:




18th - 19th When things got interesting...
Given my complete lack of skin, and Bob being in the same boat and not feeling too perky we took a rest day, and explored Drei Zinnen, as I thought it looked pretty sick in the 7s and 8s book, also very importantly having the essential 'dries quickly'next to its name, it didn't disappoint, and looked great. We put Bob's less thank 100%ness down to malnutrition or something else, maybe as a result of meals like this for nearly a month?...



Mmmm, brits abroad campfood!


The next morning we walked back to the car from the bivvy, anticipating a good breakfast, and another muggy day, only to find that some little $%^& had broken into the car, stealing all of our bulky stodgefoods! Apparently the kleptomaniac carb-loader only like oats, pasta, rybread, rice, and my essential pot of chilli-spice mix, they left the stove, clothes, climbing shoes etc! We figured that they could have been one of two things; a starving cthief with a good conscience, thus avoiding anything that wasn't essential for them to stay alive, or just a complete knob, we couldn't decide which, but looked at everyone for the rest of the trip with eyes and minds clouded by suspicion!

To cap of the day Bob discovered he had some brutal shits going on, and felt pretty bad, he rated them at at least hard 7a+, and they involved quite an endurance factor, proving heavy on the legs, due to the 10s of times they forced him to go off for a squat.

we took another rest day as you'd imagine, Bob for medical reasons and me because the loss of my 1kg of good quality wholemeal pasta which I'd been saving as a 'treat' for the last week of the trip had hit me hard, and the loss of my put of home made spicemix had crippled me psychologically even further.

20th, Chateauveau
The weekend heralded things looking up a bit for a few reasons:
1. The conditions were perfect, cool fresh, dry and sunny!
2. My mum got worried about my health and sent me a present in the form of a transfer of a few quid to my account, heralding the end of my 1 euro a day budget for food expenditure.
3. Bob was no longer suffering from the dreaded 'drippy botty'.
4. I tried some shithot problems!

Chateauveau was a walkable distance away from our home campsite at the carpark, it's a small area in the woods behind some houses between 95.2 and Gorge au Chats, the reason I wanted to go was one 2star 7b called EOS, which looked amazing.

I managed to have a complete epic on it, hitting the 'thank god' finish jug an hour in, and slipping off due to it being damp (not really an excuse, this thing is huge!), a further good hour and a bit later I finally sent the problem, so exhausted by this oint that I was taking 15 minute rests between attempts. Thoroughly worth it though, amaaaaaaaaaazing moves, real diversity from bottom to top, despite it again being a fairly short route, and powerful all the way to the finish hold.

Powered by success psyche I tried and managed the 7a mantle next door to it, and a surprisingly tricky overhang on the way back to the car, I should've sent both first go, but was pretty weak by this stage.

EOS 7B
Perlim 7a
Zigzag 7a

EOS:





21st - Rest+wet 22nd - Drei Zinnen
Given the precipitation onslaught of the previous day we headed to the fast drying Drei zinnen, I had a problem in mind but it was wet, and bob was interested in a very pinchey pockety 7B called Diversion Assis, which I thought looked like the tits as well, he was also rocketing a brand new sport-climbing weight thanks to his rectal detox.

We spent a while workign out beta on the problem, Bob preferring to do some toe-trickery and drop-knee egyptiany tye things, whilst I preferred a front on thug-it-fast method, for both of us the crux became getting a snatchy move from a powerful pinch right handed stabbing your left at an amazing but quite precise 2 finger pocket, which was a perfect hold, but only just big enough to get in.

The move became harder as the powerful pinch got greased up (mostly by Bob's sweaty mits) and we were both having increasing difficulties on the move, however with darkness came completely freezing temperatures, and the hold improved greatly, we were also taking longer rests by this point, as we were pretty tired, also, despite being light as a feather Bob's body unsurprisingly was wasn't quite yet in tip-top condition after his toilet visit focused Friday, and each attempt was taking more and more out of him.

I decided to give it 5 more goes (not that this is something I regularly manage to stick to on short problems) with headtorch post rest, and a slight change in beta, changing a cut loose fast then go gently move to a gently move feet up, then use the saved energy to thug the following moves faster with less feet and more burl, which worked out and I managed to send the problem in the dark, which always feels a bit special.



23rd - Gorge aux Chats
Refusing to take rest days at this stage to the fickle nature of the weather we took what the skies threw at us (today being cold temps and only a little damp from the previous night) and headed to our local fast drier, and home of a load of quality 7as.

Bob sent the dodgey-landing ridden Anar Chic (6c+/7a)
I managed a flash of one 7a+, which was either soft or my style, another which was definately my style, and got 2 more 7as in a few tries, aided by the increasingly good conditions.

Flashed: La ritournelle, Neige d'Autumn
Sent: Plats de Saison, les mains pleins

24th - GaC Again
A successful day and 2 days on had completely removed my skin, I took a rest day, and returned to Gorge aux Chats for bob to try Sa Pelle Au Logis (7a), which he despatched pretty quickly, and I managed to snag a video of, this problem really is a complete must for anyone going to the crag, which itself is a complete must for anyone going to font at a time when the weather isn't perfect.

Sa Pelle au Logis - 7a

25th - Let it snow let it snow let it snow!
Rest day, font was beautiful, bloody cold!

There was snow on the ground (and many of the problems) for the rest of the trip, chilly times! Cooking became pretty brutal as well.




26th 95.2 YYFY
I returned to try Sans Dessus Dessous, which had been tried 3 times already, and I'd seen on the first day of the trip, getting fairly far on it, but just not feeling strong enough, since then I'd gone backwards on it (due to minute changes in hand positioning making the crux heelhook less steady it turns out) and had also managed to drop the last easy moves due to not being able to see holds in the dark!

After some beta changing, and careful resting I sent the problem, which is undoubtedly one of the best I've ever tried in my life, and also contains what is possibly the hardest and most powerful single move(definitely heelhook) I've done so far in climbing. Upon returning home and vimeoing it it turns out the normal method is to take a massive swing from a low toehook, I tried this on the first session and deemed it impossible (for me at least, but there were other, better climbers than me there who couldn't hold it either).

Sans Dessus Dessous:




Also managed to get a video so here it is: Vimeo


27th - 28th
We checked out Bois De Long Vaux the next day, my god everything was hard, nothing to report on this one :)
On the sunday Wigg and Phil arrived, having both flashed 7b on 2 hours sleep as their warm up in cuvier it was clear that they'd both been training pretty hard! We met up with them while they were trying the popular set of highballs, which Phil crushed pretty convincingly, despite some holds being a big muggy from snow dampness, they were far beyond Bob and myself, so we headed off and did a pretty classi sit to an arrete at la Reconnaisance 'Anglaphobie' (7a).

The next day we returned to Le Cul de Chien to look at arabesque, which it turns out was covered in snow, we broomed it off but it was damp, not to mention the pockets were filled with ice... We headed on to the easily missed Roche aux Oiseau with Wigg and Phillis, which was just as snowy, but owered by psyche as ever phil cleaned of a 7c+ and got pretty close on it, trying till he'd opened up a blood blister on his palm, as is his way. His send for the day was repeating Ty Landmans clapping pullup.

Phil on the Crux:


What a pair of wizards!




We all headed to their gite for the 2nd night running, enjoying some good food my 2nd shower for the whole trip, and bob's first, which was very welcome, and much warmer than the tap we'd been washign under in a carpark.

30th - All Good things must come to an end
On the last day we headed to look at arabesque again, it hadn't snowed that night, and the rock was in perfect condition, apart from 2 pockets entirely filled with ice.. Bob was all up for sacking it off and heading straight to Cuvier, as he wanted to try L'abattoir, we decided to split the day in 2, giving me a couple of hours to de-ice and climb Arabesque, which was goign to be hard in the -5 conditions. However after 1 hour spent lying on the top of the boulder, rubbing the pockets with my freezing thumbs and chalking, and rubbing, and chalking I thought that there'd be enough purchase in the pockets for it to be tryable, as long as there was a layer of chalk between my fingers and the ice in the holds. I stepped onto the crux, and managed to send it first try, feeling quite good on the moves, and not too hampered by the ice in the pockets. It was definitely on, doing this problem on the last day in the snow would make my trip, so I promised myself I'd run my body into the ground if that's what it took to do it. I took a rest, re-pressed chalk into the holds on top of the ice and pulled on and sent it, one of the best climbing experiences I've ever had, and the perfect end to the trip.

We packed up and headed to Cuvier, by this point it was -8, and it felt it, also L'abattoir is nails! Neither of us were successful on it, so we packed up, made our lunch and headed off home to catch the ferry, bye bye font.


Well that was epic, but so was the trip.

Bored of picture uploading now, I'll shove some more up when I've got time, back to work soon though :(

Climbey Roundup

So, a fair bit of stuff has gone down since my last post, to curb the waffling I'm going to bash it out in bullet points.

#1 - A little after last blog post:
Trip to wales, ruined a tendon in my little finger trying the rockatrocity low start, doctor said it's not ruptured, predicted a month for healing, I knew there's no chance, still fucked.

#2 about 6 or 7 weeks off from climbing, gained weight, lost strength, sad times! :( My finger meant that using the board is all but impossible, no pinching or crimping on my left hand/anything which puts pressure through my left pinkie.


#3 Tested out my completely ineffective finger after a big break by going out on the grit, where luckily there aren't many holds to speak of, my finger didn't hold me back too much on slopers, managed zippy's traverse at stanage, felt heavy, but some strength remained.

#4 Headed to the roaches for soem more lack of holds, did a few 7as, and the worlds hardest 6c sitter!

#5 Went to font (lack of holds = win) with Bob, big trip, 40days, shoestring budget, I'll get in a big post some time soon and maybe a picture of the logbook I kept whilst there.

(In summary: 1 week of sun, 2 weeks of rain, 1 week of improved but colder weather, 1 week of a LOT of snow 20 7a/+s, 2 7bs 2 7b+s, better than I was expecting given complete lack of climbing fitness, did my finger some good as well I think)


#6 Headed to pantymwyn, had a good session despite every hold on the crag being damp, did thug mentality (mans' way) (soft 7c) and mental extension 7B, hopefully I'll be able to link the two, which'd be a pretty solid achievement for me as it's so long, it'd also probably go a long way to improving my non-existent stamina :)

#7 Started working nights at a warehouse to pay the bills over christmas, 6 in the evening until 4 in the morning, tiring, I'm going to look like a sport climber by january if I'm not careful!



I'm going to go and see another doctor regarding my finger, hopefully I'll be referred to a specialist, my current GP is pretty august and missed out information when refering me to a physio about my ankle, and is a basically a bit of a dick, adding more evidence to my theory that all white middle age male doctors are incapable of either people skills or listening when you tell them what's wrong with you.

I'll get some pictures of the beauty of snowy Font up some time soon!

It's been a while!

For all of you 1 or 2 avid followers I can only apologise for the lack of recent updates, I hope you've found some other people to stalk on the webz!

This is going to be a mammoth post given the time since my last post, and also I'm on a rest day so I've got nothing better to do.

kind of in order
The Cave again

A return trip to the cave saw Wiggy dispatch trigger cut, a very impressive send, and from my perspective at least I think a good contender for his hardest to date, I also managed rock attrocity (unexpected, my anti-style, VERY pleased, and sent at the end of the session :))

The video of danny is of epic quality(ish) and will take forever to upload, head over to my vimeo for a look, also got some videos of stuff that I'll mention further down this epic.

Pantymwyn, 3 weeks ago, session#1

It turns out that about 35/40mins down the road I've got some quality limestone bouldering! Easy motorway route there means that a return trip works out just under a tenner, massive win!

Headed down with wiggy bob and gav, it's basically a limestone churnet valley, needless to say I think it's the tits, could do with a few more problems, but what's there's great!



Bob was on pretty mental form, as it was his first post-font outdoors trip, he was looking pretty strong and light, and most importantly dressed smart and looked so french that a genuine frog actually hopped close to him while he was psyching himself up to send whatever this one above is :)

proof of Bob's suspected French roots:




We all sent pantys down, brilliant route, which in true welsh limestone cave style has a sitter, and an extension, and another extension, and a left hand version x2, megawin! Unfortunately this place is apparently no good as a winter venue, which is a bit gutting given its proximity, plesentness, and night-time-climb potential :(





Pantymwyn trip #2 that Brum lot

Shortly after that JK and Rose came down for a bit of climbing, given their late arrival we opted for a bit of evening climbing, it was brilliant, got some good use out of the gaz lamp, probably going to get another one of these if I can lay my hands on one, again it's such a shame pantymwyn (aka devil's gorge) isn't a solid winter venue!

It was immediately apparent that Rose has decided to become a beast, as she burled her way up the completely sandbagged 'problem 8' which is meant to be v2, which seems pretty stiff.



James Did Pantys, we both had a couple of goes on thug mentality (appropriately named, probably one of the burliest v8s I've ever tried, and prob wouldn't go without a fair bit of work, we then turned out attention to the sitter of pantys (possibly, starting hold confusion :)) and (possibly) both sent it by lamplight, que gratuitous high exposure night shots:









Brum Lot day 2 - Churnet!

En route to birmingham (I stayed at
the wonderful James Kay hotel for a few nights to get in some work at creation wall) we stopped off at the ever idyllic churnet valley, rose dominated cottage rocks in general, sending 3 of her hardest boulder probs to date in less than 40mins (they're going to have to remain nameless as I don't have a guide :|). However I did snag a vid and snap some pics.




James and I were unfortunately not on the same form, both making rookie mistakes on the nemesis that is simple simon, my foot wouldn't allow me to do it any way which involved technique, and I wussed out on the campus on a number of occasions, definitely should have stuck the penultimate hold, James' attempt was just as frustrating, missing out on doing it first go, and not getting as close as he had on the following attempts.

To be honest it's a shit problem in campus, I'd much rather do it with feet, but it's a very specific problem/angle for my right toes, if I do get it at some point in the near future it'll be in campus, and then some point later I'll have to return to do it the footsie way, which is simply miles better.







Yorkshire Grit Trip, courtesy of Cocky hotels ltd

Before I even talk about the climbing it's worth mentioning what lovely types Cocky's family are, who put us up(and put up with us) for 4nights, and tried to feed us at every available opportunity, much appreciated.

It's been a long long time since I've pulled onto grit, things haven't changed in the slightest, it's still coarse, it's still elbow-wrenchingly burly, and I still loose 2 full grades when I climb on it.

However it's still got that distinctly British charm, and some amazing problems :D

Monday - Day#1 - Almscliff
James sent Dolphin Belly slap, I repeated it, cocky 'slab master' had a few goes.

Tuesday - Day #2
We headed to Ilkley, James and I did a ridiculously hard v6 on the calf boulder, had a look around, what a spot! Crazy windy, bloody hard, welcome to grit country!




Really can't complain about the walk in, what a pleasure! Due to wind we had a very british car-picnic.

We took a little trip to Caley, where I onsighted and James flashed 'New Jerusalem', exactly the same as the problem below, was basically an indoor-style slap on grit, nice moves, but lost all of its complexities because of thuggary.

Evening - James and I sent Red Barron, brilliant problem, completely thugged it I believe though, one of those increasingly familiar situations where I find myself pleased that I've worked out my own beta, but wondering if the climb would be better done slower, with more handmovements/holds, still completely brilliant though!
Wednesday - day#3
We opted for a day off, glad we did, orange wednesday's to the rescue!

Thursday - day #4
Cocky, the overhang burl hating 'slab specialist' crushed dolphin belly slap, completely amazing effort, given that the hardest he's bouldered outside was v3 previously to this, doubling your grade isn't something you often hear about in bouldering :)


Adam Coxsell, Slab Specialist, and hater of all things overhanging and burly:



Needless to say we didn't stop taking the piss for the remainder of the trip :)



I also discovered how to keep warm in yorkshire:



And James demonstrated the correct way for one to go about kitting u for soem serious trad climbing/epic cacking yourself.





James and I also sent Demon roof, not a bad problem.

We opted to head back to mine the following day, via rubicon, after a couple of goes JK sent rubicon roof, and I got close, both of us suffered terribly from freezing cold fingers, what women!

For the first time ever I can honestly say that I want to go back to a crag to try a sport climb, as opposed to a boulder problem. This is not just because the bouldering at rubicon is pants compared to every limestone bouldering venue I've been to outside the peaks, it's purely on its own merit, a brilliant route, looking forwards to giving it another go.

Disclamer: I don't like 20degree walls with crimps I am thoroughly biased, I'm going to send every stand start problem on that wall at some point so I can be justified in my opinions, and never have to do them again.




The following day, after a night spent at mine we headed to Maeshafen for some trad (I know), unfortunately the moment james easily topped out the first ascent of the day (the minstrel, E1, he made it look like a doddle) it started to rain, so i bombed it up after him, took out the gear, and we scuttled back to the car complete with litter pick, like the absolute crag legends we are.




Prob going to head back there some time, as it's a sweet spot, and I actually like the look of some of the climbs!


Bored of writing, will update about lake district trip some time soon, it has unfortunately resulted in a very dubious feeling left elbow, but some hard work was put in, and fun had by all, fingers crossed it's nothing serious :s

Yes Yes Fucking Yes

As seen in the revious post myself, Wig, and Little Tom headed up to the cave on thursday to show it some love. After a bit of a delay my motorway virginity was swiftly taken from me as we headed towards shiny llandudno, conditions were looking o.k (motorway driving is boring).

On arriving for the first time ever every single hold in the cave was dry (not sticky, but you can't have everything!). Tommy had a looksie at pilgrim, and the v12 start to rockatrocity, Danny was reacquainting himself with trigger cut, and the resulting hole it makes in his knee. I warmed up a little and pulled onto Lou Ferrino, which wasn't feeling grippy, but wasn't wet at all! It felt similar to last time, falling off at the same point, I took a quick breather, to have a look at Tom working the bridge move of pilgrim (yeesh), and give Danny a spot on the ever so horizontal crux of TC. Post rest I had another go at Lou, getting the furthest I've ever got, being the first pocket, but my fingers, which are a pretty tight fit due to their sausageness anyway just weren't right. Given that this is the furthest I've ever got I decided to take a big old rest, have a bit of chocolate and give it another go in a while, and watched/spotted t'others for a bit again, getting a couple of snaps of Tom.

Next go Lou Ferrino went! Best problem I've ever done, and my first V10, I think the hours I've been putting in on the board have made a difference, as did actually resting, bloody chuffed with it I sat around with a grin like a gimp for about an hour, and then jumped on the ever so swingy 'We've a beaver' which to my great surprise I managed to send.

At this point cave legends dave Noden and Chris Davies had turned up, giving Danny some wicked beta on TC, which helped him all but send the bastard, if he hadn't been trying it for so long already I reckon it would've gone. God knows what disgusting stuff they were trying, but they both looked pretty strong, and being thoroughly nice guys chatted to us for ages about magic wood, giving us a load of helpful tipbits. Tommy meanwhile was looking pretty solid on the low low rockatrocity start, and having showed me just how easy rockatrocity can look I don't doubt he'll be dispatching the problem some time in the next couple of trips.

All in all a cracking trip, first V10, good times and good company, win all round! That's it for now, I've managed to get 6hours of ever so needed work at the pool I worked at the last couple of summers, going away next week also, possibly to get some grit done :O.

Over and out.

Training Hard + Jobless

Well, if the legends of old are to be believed then I should be a beast in no time, I'm beginning to become one of the oldest climbing clichés, just without the skills to boot! I was meant to be getting a call for an interview at a nicely located local place, but to no avail, so I began training for switzerland in earnest, having arrived at the realisation that if I do get a job, and they only offer me something full time I'm not going to be able to do things entirely according to my own chosen routine. I am going to make the most of this!

The board is looking pretty beautiful at the moment, Bob has purchased a set of the bleaustone 30degree pockets, and a system set for it, no issues with them whatsoever, in fact they're bloody amazing, I've always found that a lot of thought's gone in to everything bleaustone make, and these're no exception. I'm trying to track down some of the pinches (harder than you'd think). We've also put some good ol' broom handle on the top, meaning we could take down a few jugs to make room, and there's more home made woodies than ever, I'll get a pic up soon.

Since I last updated not much real climbing has been done considering; I've been away to visit some very rickety grandparents with the family, but managed to get a little trip to the ever-dependable cave done avec the solid that is JK, meeting Northern Ben there late one evening, where we lit up the cave with headlights, and james made a supersexy ascent of left wall, in the best frictioned conditions I've ever seen in the cave, just a shame the shadows made it impossible for him to see footholds close to ground level!

(as is traditional James made the ascent in boxers, this however didn't work for me on Lou Ferrino)

A fair few problems went down over the course of the trip some of which I'll probably have forgotten- Ben Dispatched dust kick low, I did Parisellas Roof and Lipped out (high!), James did right wall reverse into Bust Lip and Beaver Right Hand, also putting in some time whilst far from fresh on left wall high, which he and Danny both looked pretty strong on.

Heading to the cave again today with Little Tom, Danny, and Gav, not climbed with any of them in ages and looking forward to it. No idea how conditions are going to be, but it'll be good to get outdoors! I am going to take the camera, and even remember the tripod, so hopefully I'll be able to get a couple of good photos, Danny's been getting closer on trigger cut, which looks stiff as can be, so some high up horizontal gurning will be on the cards for sure :)

2 weeks of lovely 'Meta Errors' +more!

No idea why this website keeps throwing them up for me, technology I guess :S

Anyone know what I'm doing to make this happen?

It's been 2 weeks since my last (attempt at a) post and many things have happened, this is going to be epic, if you plan on reading to the end I suggest making a cuppa to accompany.

firstly there's the above (21st July):

...Win!

With the help of Gav's expertise, Bob's maths and all of our labouring I now have this little beauty on my house (my parents are pretty amazing for allowing it :))

Some time around the 13th

Shortly before this we took a little trip to the lakes(ish), to trowbarrow and woodwell, I got close on The Pit Problem, (7b+) and Not Bad Dave (7c, absolutely classy as well) but had climbed in wales the 2 days previously and was pretty tired, I felt that I'd put in enough effort to get the moves wired, and would be able to do them if we returned with a bit of luck. Gav and Bob also had a good go on both of them, all of us getting close, and danny got the sequence nailed on the unmercifully shouldery 'Wheelbarrow' (v10) (Danny also saw of not bad dave pretty fast, and with a glove protecting the hold on the lip from the now torrential rain we were sheltering under the problem from)

21st July: Does that mean he has to get naked?...'Yeah right now; we'll turn the video camera off first'

Return to Lancashire, this time with the whole krew, 2 cars, and enough mats to save me bruising my arse taking falls on the pit problem like last time - Myself, Bob, Danny, Gav, and Little Tom.

Danny smegged all over wheelbarrow on his 2nd attempt despite the temperature, must've been about 27, Tommy quickly worked out his own beta and joined suit, then to my great happyness (probably due to the wonder of rest days) I got the pit problem. Bob sorted his foot beta after a bunch of goes, but was too tired to make it (prob something to do with the horrific heat), and Gav got perilously close, screwing the pooch on the top-out. Check out Danny's Blog for more.

I then stripped down to my boxers and managed to get the pit low start, my first 7c! Really glad I got it on a problem with a top out, as I got to sit up there all happy for 5 mins, after Wig had claimed me and taken a picture of my all triumphant at the top (sans clothing).

We headed over to woodwell where I got Not Bad Dave, screwing the very last move by catching the muddy side of the last jug once before managing to get it next go (despite a friendly wasp which landed on my face as soon as I had pulled up on the lip, there was no way I was letting getting stung on the nose take a problem this good from me!).

First 2 v9s, pretty chuffed!

The video of the pit problem SS was 2.4mb over the 100mb limit for the site.. fail, so here's a facebook link

28th-30th July: Last but not least!

Time to introduce another couple of climbing companions to the blog, the honourable Mr Kay aka James/Special/JK and Alex Dexter aka Sir Lanksalot, both friends from Brum uni who I met via the climbing club. These 2 picked me up en route to the Wales around mid day Wed for a budget 3 day trip to the cave of justice and surrounding wonderness. Apologies if I miss anything out, we climbed at least 20hours each over 3 days and there's a lot of stuff to be remembered!

Day 1

Arrived @ the aforementioned cave of wonderment, sent the sit to clever cleaver (soft 7c) as my warm up, win! (I've spent a lot of time on all of the parts of it to be fair). James despatched the looooong right wall reverse into parisellas roof, really showing his sport climber's stamina.

Dexter also jumped on this problem, (having never tried it from the normal start, ballsy) but had difficulties working out beta whilst pumped out of his mind.

I also managed the low start (best low start everrrr!) to beaver cleaver(7b+), and Mr Kay sent it from the stand.

Day 2

Woke up nice and early in the cave, bumbled around with our morning ablutions, and walked down to pill box wall, which was FREEZING, by the time I arrived (I had been reading on the toilet) JK had already done Pill Box Original (v6/7) and was looking at the greek, which surprisingly I managed to flash, and he did shortly after: looking at home as ever on crimps. Due to it being pretty bloody baltic we headed back to the cave. I played on Lou Ferrino, and got to the rail for the first time, then spent the next 3 hours dozing on mats in the sun whilst James and Dexter grabbed a bunch of routes just upstairs of the cave (a video would follow, but it's nearly half a gig, sorry James!) That evening James did the low start to right wall, and I slaughtered myself trying lou ferrino again, to no avail, just too tired/not quite clear on beta.

James on Pill Box Original v6/7

Just before we bedded down the 2 strangers turned up in the dark, what could've been a bit dodgy ended up sweet as a bishop, as they turned out to be the powerhouses of campusing/horrific crimps which are the Copleys, we had a chat, then went to sleep in readiness for a day of abuse on Friday (I slept 'til 9:30, winner!)

Day 3: 10 Hours of steep powerful overhangs please.

We had promised to well and truly burn ourselves out on the final day, I was keen for Louey, but was just too tired from the previous days didn't stop me getting to the first pocket a fair few times (I wish I had skinny fingers), got my beta sorted out now though, dexter and JK didn't stop, despite the rain, perhaps most ridiculously James tried Rockatrocity over 8hours in and nearly did it (I've been telling him it'd suit him for ages, glad he jumped on) getting to the rail just under the drilled pocket. Despite the problem being far from over at this point I don't doubt that he'll crush it at some point in the near future, very impressive first 7c it'd be and all.

Apologies for the length (lol) as sad as it may be I do actually miss writing essays having spent 3 years solid bashing them out at Uni :S

Team Brum will be returning to Wales, weather permitting late next week hopefully, this time with the legendary Northern Ben, who I lived with last year at Uni, who's been on a pretty solid peak traverse crushing mission for the past month, can't see him not being spoilt for choice at the cave :)

Jumping on the bandwagon

As the title says everyone else seems to be doing this and it seems like a good rest day activity so I'm jumping on the bandwagon; would've made a lot more sense if I started this a couple of months back but what the hell.

Who?

The chances are that if you're reading this then you know me, but if you don't I'm Byron and I like to climb. I've just finished uni in Biringham, moved back with the 'rents and am living in good old (flat but very well situated) Cheshire: Northwich to be exact. - The closer parts of Wales, The Peaks, and The Lakes are pretty much all an hour away, it's not exactly a bikeride down the road, but there's more variety, choice and quality an hours drive away than you can shake a stick at.

What?

Bouldering, and lots of it! My first and true love, ostly with local heros Daniel Boocock (Bob) and Danny Mills (Wig), occasionally with the beast of lock-off which is Gav Nixon also. Hopefully a bit of sport (I am in serious need of some endurance, and mixing things up is always a good thing). I may even venture into the wonderful world of trad this winter, we shall see, although I am recovering from one horrific sprained ankle which I did 3 months ago (still cannot run, despite physio + exercises), which wouldn't be the best thing to fall on.

That's enough of that, for now I'll copy in my aims for 2010 from my old climbing club (UBMC) forum and say where I'm at.

Boulder 7c - Not done, hopefully this'll go soon, I'll be ambitious and say I'd like to do 7c+

Highball E1/E2 - (with pads, I'm no lunatic) Did finger distance at curbar (amazing), unfortunately got unlucky with a rock under a pad and a dodgy spot trying the direct version, which is what tore every ligament going in my right ankle. Thanks to this unfortunately there's not going to be much more highballing for at least 6 months, my foot doesn't bend very well, and won't really do slabs.

Weigh 10.7 - Done

Get out to more venues - Done, recently went to the lakes for the first time, especially impressed by the quality.

Get better at 1 armers - Done, can nearly do 3 from d-hang on each arm.

That really is it for now, hopefully more updates to follow, well done if you reached the end, I'm good at rambling :)