V10 Again!

Just a quickie, sent Thug Mental today, having managed to drop it at the 2nd to last jug last session (I know), didn't manage to get a vid, but I'll rag one up of one of my frustration scream sponsored unsuccessful attempts up once it's on Vimeo, in all modesty I reckon I'm rocking the best beta in the world on this problem ^^, it felt fine, no where near the struggle that I had on Lou Ferrino, and it's length wasn't as much of an issue as I thought it'd be at all. The initial crux was worked out with Bob's help, then modded a bit to get in a sexy toehook which makes the moves much less percentagey, and also faster, and I worked out another toehook method for the mental extension section on the rank sloper, which makes a huge difference.


I headed down with the inhumane crush-engager that is Little Tom, who managed Thug Mental, it's 2 parts (all in a couple of goes, 4 max) and flashed pantys down for good measure.

Now the sit calls, Thug mental goes at 7c+ (previously 8a), crag link expert Holger Moeller has done a low start, into thug mental, extending into firestarter's finish, grading it only 8a, this looks mental (appropriately), not to mention it's at least 15metres of climbing, including 3 v7ish cruxy moves. If thug mental really is 7c+ then I don't think the sitter could be anything but 8a, so I guess Holger's epic link is just hard for the grade or something.

I've climbed twice in the padt 4 days, which has doubled my total of climbing (indoor and out) for the last month since I started doing nights, I've got shit all finger strength left, but shifting 15kg crates around for 8 hours a night is at least keeping my body tension, core, shoulders etc in check, looking forwards to finishing, which I guess will be around the end of Jan, when I'll have enough money to head to the rocklands with senior Wigg next year (psyyychhhheeed)


Failed Attempt

In other news my little finger on my left hand is still crap, stopping me from close crimping and pinching(my got I miss pinches :(), I'm probably going to go back to my GP and see if I can get a referral to someone who knows what they're doing.

For now Enjoy some pretty pictures of pantymwyn, the fail vid link will prob be edited in tomorrow.